Northern Jordan

The reason that Jordan originally was going to only be a one week stop but changed to 16 days was because of the Northern Jordan archaeological sites.  Our first glimpses of Google images showing well preserved and reconstructed roman ruins made it an easy decision to visit this region.  The sites can be done as day trips from Amman but with up to 5 hour round trips, we decided to stay up north to limit the drive time.  The hotel selection is very limited north of Amman and we stayed at another Wild Jordan property, this time in the Ajloun Forest Reserve.  The cabins provided a comfortable stay and once again we were the only guests until our last night when a Singaporean couple joined us.  Plus it had some of the best Jordanian food we had sampled yet.

Jerash

Right in the heart of the modern town of Jerash lays the archaeological site of the ancient Greco-Roman city of Gerasa. The town grew and survived through Roman, Byzantine, Islamic and Crusader rule till it was destroyed and abandoned in the 8th Century after an earthquake. Today, the site is a huge area that takes 4-5 hours to walk around and explore the different amphitheaters, temples, churches, mosques, plazas and colonnades.  We were in constant amazement at the size, amount and wonderful preservation of the ruins that gave a hint to city life in those days. Due to its location in the city and popular access, it was more crowded, dirty and had its share of trinket pushers that takes away some of the grandeur of the site. 

Pella

This small ruins site from a city that was part of the Jerash state is out of the way, undeveloped and slightly unimpressive.  Though it did allow us to see a place that was partially getting restored and with stalled excavation work.  We definitely had a better feel for what ruins look like before modern restoration efforts took place. 

Umm Qais

Another beautiful site in the far NW corner of Jordan that sits atop a hill with commanding views that spread from Jordan, Palestine, Israel, Lebanon and Syria.  Walking through the jumbled black basalt stone ruins, it is easy to forget the tenseness of the geopolitical region we are gazing over.  Though it was far from being reconstructed as well or as large as Jerash, it was quiet, less crowded, cleaner and an idyllic setting to walk about and explore.  On the eastern side of the site is a sprawling jumble of excavated churches, temples, crypts and market areas but most of the land is still unearthed and covered in a olive tree orchard that runs up next to a Jordanian army base.  It looks undeveloped at first but is well worth the time to seek out the sites that have been revealed.